Quinta da Costa
Whitewashed and low against the wind, a short walk from a beach the guidebooks never quite manage to name correctly.
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Practical things, briefly.
Getting there
An hour and a half from Faro airport, three from Lisbon. A hire car is needed; the coastal road has the better stops along it. The drive in along the back lanes from Aljezur is the introduction.
The food
Breakfast on the terrace until eleven. For dinner, Tasca do Petisco in Arrifana for grilled sardines and the bar crowd, A Eira do Mel in Vila do Bispo for slow-cooked game, O Sitio do Rio for the lunchtime fish at the beach.
Worth doing
Arrifana for the surf and the headland walk at sunset. Cabo de Sao Vicente for the lighthouse and the silence. The Aljezur market on Saturday morning. The cliff path either side of the property for 2 hours each way.
The detail
Open March to October. 8 rooms, breakfast included, beach towels and packed lunches on request. Portuguese spoken with fluent English and a little French.